Wisconsin River 1st Unsupported Solo Male Fastest Known Paddle: 6D, 6H

Richard Hodgkins

June 20 - June 26, 1994.

424 Miles (approx.)

Unsupported

Start: Lac Vieux Desert, 5:30am, June 20, 1994.

Finish: Wisconsin/Mississippi Confluence, 8:11am, June 26, 1994.

Boat: Sawyer “Loon” C1 Solo Canoe 55lbs.

Paddles: Zaveral single blade bent shaft

Trip Report from Richard Hodgkins:

June 20

It was a cool overcast morning when I put in at Lac Vieux Desert just south of the Michigan, Wisconsin state line. This is the headwaters of the Wisconsin River. The dam was letting only a dribble of water through its gates to feed the river. What a way to spend a vacation a mad dash of 430 miles to set a record. John Kropp who brought me up was taking pictures. I knew that most of them would not come out because of the low light level but I didn’t care. My only thought was on the end of my quest 430 miles away. I had prepared for this for 2 years. At one point I had given up on my quest because of my asthma. This was day number one and I was about to start . John signed my log book and I waited while he took more pictures. At exactly 5:30 AM I took off from the small pool that forms the headwaters. No more than 100 yards down stream was my first portage. I thought briefly about going through the two culverts that ran under the road. Looking closely I could see that they were both filled with spiders. I quickly pulled my canoe up and over the road. 

The first section of river is a true wilderness area. The width of the river is no wider than 2 canoes. At times I could look across the river and see the exact place I had been five minutes before. I could make no speed on this section of river and just paddled ahead, around and through the turns. The upper 35 miles looks more like of the country 100 miles north, jack pine, brush and the acid scent of tarmac trees. Beaver dams and dead falls blocked the river every other mile. I counted 22 before losing count. It took almost 2 hours to reach the RT. 45 bridge only six miles from the start. 

At 9:30 am I had reached Rohr's Canoe Landing. It was time to get more water and have Jeff Rohr sign my log book. We had met two weeks before and he was glad to give the much needed water. I was traveling light because of the low water and couldn’t afford to bring an extra gallon of water along. It was a quick "hello" and I was off.

Crossing Watersmeet Lake just west of Eagle River I noticed I was running two hours behind schedule. The weather had been perfect but the water level was only six inches deep for the first 15 miles. Picking up speed I crossed the lake. I felt in great shape. The first hydro dam was just ahead. Otter Rapids Hydro is a baby compared to the giant ones I would meet in the next few days. A quick portage and I was in the river again. I had planned on a break at Hawks Nest Outfitters but had time to only pick up some water. It was 5 PM and I was still running two hours late. I lost even more time negotiating the next 3 miles of rock gardens. An otter snorted at me when I came too close to her baby. They were the only otters I was to see on this trip.

As I approached Rainbow Reservoir I kept a close eye on a storm that was closing in fast. It hit just as I passed the mouth of Rainbow. A terrestrial downpour with no wind. The rain came in sheets straight down and lasted for 15 minutes and the sun was out again. I scanned the shores for the legendary albino deer that roamed these parts but with no luck. A few canoe campers had the upper section of this large reservoir all to themselves. Five eagles soared over head at one time. It took an hour to cross the reservoir and reach the dam. 

My goal for the day was McNaugton Bridge about 11 miles away. Knowing this day would be my hardest. I decided to pull out early at Rainbow Rapids bridge. I completed the short but intense rapids and pulled out at the bridge.The time was 9:30 PM and I had completed 65 miles in 16 hours of canoeing.

June 21

It was 6:10 am before I started the next day. This put me an hour behind and 8 miles just to catch up for pulling out early the day before. The river deepened and straightened with gentle curves This was the time to make up time. I paddled hard and fast up into Boom Lake. Weeds choked the entrance to the lake and I followed the open river channel. It soon became apparent that a direct assault through the weeds would be a better plan of action. I ran straight for the St. Regis Paper Mill Dam in Rhinelander. I hit shore just as a church chimed 10 AM. I had made up the 8 miles but was still running 2 hours behind schedule.

The St. Regis Mill Dam is one of the hardest to portage. I had previously scouted the best way and it took me into town. I tried to carry both my pack and my canoe but they were too heavy. This meant I would have to make two trips on this mile long portage. I bought some distilled water, peaches and a few bananas at a grocery store. My main food source for this trip was Twinlabs “Opti fuel II” and “Powerbars”. A few more staples to my diet couldn’t hurt. 

The next 5 miles was serene and peaceful. After the portage at Hat Rapids Dam the river turned wild. Rapid after rapid was met and conquered. These were to be class 1 rapids but because of the low water level rocks were exposed all over the river with no clear channel through. I dreaded the thought of what I knew was fast approaching, the notorious Whirlpool rapids. The river split in two and I could here the roar of the water ahead. Reaching the island at the split in the river I looked in disbelief at the intensity of the flow. I tried to line down but gave up after getting my feet caught in the rocks. The only way out was to portage. It took me as long to portage this, because of the difficult terrain, as St. Regis Dam. The rapids continued for the next three miles. 

The river slowed again as I reached Tomahawk and Kings Dam. It was up and over both Kings dam and the Tomahawk dam. I knew that I was running late and I had reserved a camp site at Council Grounds Camp grounds. This was to be my destination for the night.

It was 10 PM when I had finished portaging Grand Mothers and Grand Fathers Falls and the sun was below the horizon. The full moon lit up the river. Two rapids lay ahead. Should I pull out now and camp or try and make it to Council Grounds? If I took It slow I knew I could get past Bill Cross rapids but I had never run Posy rapids before. I made the decision quickly and got into the swift current. The current pulled me in the right direction and I made only last second corrections. With eyes glued on the water and direction of the current I side slipped along through Bill Cross Rapids. About four miles downstream I could hear the gentle roar of Posy rapids. I could make out the shape of big rocks in the moonlight. I was in the main channel and the swift current flung me passed the rocks even before I could make an adjustment. In two minutes I had cleared the last rock. The adrenaline rush had given me life. Was I good, suicidal or just damn lucky? I didn't have time to answer. Seven more miles of paddling lay ahead. I reached Council Grounds at 12:30 AM dead tired but not dead. Beaching the canoe I made camp. I had gone 72 miles in 18 hours and was right on schedule.

June 22

I was in the water just after 7 AM the next day. This would be a day of long portages. The morning was already hot. I pulled my canoe a Sawyer “Loon” out of the water. It was a perfect canoe for the Wisconsin river. The “Loon” was not too heavy could carry at least 400 lbs of gear and was fast. It was a designed by Verlin Kruger and could handle any type of water. The Merrill Dam was short and easy. A small rapids just under the bridge and I was in the deeper water that would carry me down for the next day. A small broken dam at Brokaw was put behind me. Wausau lay ahead. The putrid odor of the paper mills filled my lungs. The heat of the day was wearing me down. For some reason I was going under, my body ached and I could hardly lift my paddle. Had I hit he wall so early in the day? It took a super human effort just to paddle the next 3 miles. At the portage I was under. Couldn't get back into the canoe now. The body tells one when to take a break. I went across the river and watched the children play on the Wausau's white water course. Later I walked into town. The mall is only a short distance away. I bought some water and aspirin and a big slice of pizza and headed back to my canoe. I rested for about two hours and took off. The heat I later learned was up to 100 degrees. I didn't worry about losing any time. When your body says stop then its best to stop. I reached back into my pack for some Opti Fuel and my glasses fell into the river. These were my regular prescription glasses. I had my polarized ones on. Nothing I could do I kept paddling on. Water-skiers and fast motorboats zoomed by in Lake Wausau. Rib Mountain loomed in the background.

The Rothchild Dam and Mosinee Dam portages went without a hitch. Lake DuBay lay ahead. I wanted to make sure I didn't get lost. Taking out my maps of DuBay I plotted my course. The sun was setting as I pulled into the dam. I was used to running in the dark but I only had polarized glasses. I could still make out the river so I paddled on. I had just coming into Steven's Point when the wind picked up. Whitecaps broke over my bow but I pushed on. I had to make The Ridgewood campground. By 2:30 AM I finished the Conant & Al Tech Dam portages. A small rapids was just downstream. Should I run It? No! It was too risky. The deciding factor was my polarized glasses. If I had my regular glasses the answer would have been yes. I rested on the bank and waited for daylight only 2 miles from my camp site. At 4 30 AM I started out again arriving in Ridgewood campground at 5:00 AM. I setup camp and fell asleep. I had completed 76 miles but it took 22 hours.

June 23

My god! It was 10 AM and I was still in bed. A light rain was falling and a gentle breeze was blowing from the north. This was to be my easy day. 4 miles of portages (12 miles if you count the double portages ) but only 61 miles in length. By 11 AM I was on the Biron Flowage with a gentle breeze pushing me along. The portage at Biron is a long carry over. I knew not to follow the portage signs but followed the path down to the river. I portaged the next two dams without incident . (Wisconsin Rapids Dam and Centralia Dam) The Centralia portage runs through a golf course and has an ice cooler on the 17th green. A rope is required to lower the canoe down to the river.

The Port Edward's portage turned out to be the toughest on the entire trip. A steep wooded path for a mile then you must lower the canoe by rope again to the river floor. Now the problems really began. There is no flowing water for at least 2 miles. Big pools end and you have to lift over each dead end pool. If the hydros were ever open I doubt if this portage would be possible. It is a gigantic rock garden with no water. I started the Nekoosa Dam portage at 7 PM. During the portage I stopped in town to get something to eat. Everything was closed. A gas station was still open that sold microwavable food. I gobbled up everything insight 

It was 9 PM before I entered the last turn into Petenwell. I had run part of this before and had been pyched out by its size, 30 miles long and 6 miles wide. My northerly wind was still with me. I started out surfing on short wave crests. I was moving at least 10 miles an hour. It took long sprints to keep on top of the wave crests. The dark helped keep me focused on the waves. The dark also helped me forget that I was 2 miles from shore. For two hours I surfed the waves. As I approached the southern shore the wave heights started to increase. Now I started backing off the waves otherwise I would bury my bow in the wave in front. It was starting to get interesting. I estimate the waves at 4 -5 feet and tumbling over in foam. The landing on the southern shore is a steep incline made of rocks. This would be a tricky a landing. The shore line came into view. The tower that I thought to be the dam was instead a radio tower. The landing was far east of that point. I angled over ever so slightly to the dam. I made sure not to be broadsided by an incoming wave. Now the landing. I could hear and see the waves crashing on the rocky shore. About two canoe lengths away I jumped out of the canoe. Pulled it around to face the waves and scrambled on shore. Timing the wave sets I frantically pulled the canoe ashore and over the rocks. It was complete. Petenwell had been conquered at least on this night. 

I made the portage, picked up some water and started down to the next Flowage-Castle Rock Flowage. It was 2 AM when I pulled out on a sandbar about a mile away from the flowage. This was a short 46 mile day .

June 24

The wind was still blowing in from the north when I got up at 5:30 AM. Castle Rock Flowage was a repeat of the night before, with the same results a tricky landing and one more flowage down. The section between Castle Rock and the Dells is a canoeing paradise. Just past the RT. 82 bridge the river is lined by high stone walls. The water is deep and current fast till Clarke Island. At the island it becomes a labyrinth of small channels going nowhere. Fortunately I had a fisherman's map to guide me through.

The Dells is the most spectacular place on the whole river. I will not attempt to describe its beauty, just go there and see for yourself. Make sure you go late in the year after all the tour boats are out of the water. They can put up one hell of a wake. I canoed up to Kilbourn Dam which was once the name of the town. A short trip into town for water and peaches and down the lower Dells-which is a decidedly less hectic place. 

It was 9 PM before I paddled into historic Portage Wisconsin. I planned to stop for dinner. Paddling around the right channel took me away from the town. No way was I going to paddle up stream to get some food. I took out 3 Powerbars and paddled on. A storm was heading in and a light rain began to fall. Pulling to shore I quickly setup my tent. Just about the time I put my head on my pillow the full moon came out. Knowing that only one more trouble spot lay between me and my record I quickly broke camp. I had a mission tonight, make and pass Lake Wisconsin to the dam at Prairie Du Sac. The moonlit river was easy to follow. At the RT. 94 bridge I shook up a couple fishermen when I yelled "Hello". They almost jumped into my canoe.

The entrance to Lake Wisconsin is awesome. Two big hills, or mountains to this flatlander, stand like posted guards on each bank and mark a clear gateway into the lake. A light wind blew into my face. I paddled in. I met the ferry at 3 AM. as it crossed the lake. I had the Captain sign my log book and talked to him for a half hour. He was flabbergasted at the size of my small craft. Before bridges the only way across the Wisconsin River was by ferry and this was the last of the breed. I took it as an honor when he signed my log. I’m not sure he understood why it was so important to me. 80 miles made this my longest day 24 hours in the canoe.

June 25

A heavy fog blanketed the river as I pulled into the dam. I was 36 hours ahead of the old record and on schedule. Looking around I knew the record was mine. Ninety miles of river and sandbars lay ahead. Nothing could keep me back. I set up camp on the top of the dam over looking the river. I slept for three hours and paddled over to the town of Salk City. Climbing the high bank I went into town. The restaurant was busy and I had eggs and pancakes. 

The lower river was filled with canoes. The sand bars were like tent cities. Livery after livery kept a steady steam of canoeist floating down the river. At most they would paddle 10 miles and camp. I knew that I could run the rest of the way down in one day. But now I just wanted to have fun and enjoy the river. Getting to Spring Green turned out to be a nightmare. My arms started aching and my mind started drifting. I hit every sandbar. I was going under again. After twice the time it should have taken I arrived in Spring Green. Beaching my canoe on a sandbar I walked over to Bob’s Resort. I called John an arranged for my pickup for the next day. Then I rested 

Spring Green to Muscoda was race time. I had run this course 15 times, the first in the 1979 USCA Canoe Nationals. My pace picked up my aches were gone I was at home. I made it to Muscoda in a little over 3 1/2 hours not bad for how low the river was. A camper signed my log book. A young boy asked if I was staying for the fireworks. I thought he was kidding because I could see lightning up river. Then a storm passed over. I knew I had better get going. I pulled out into the current and the fireworks began. Sky rockets and bottle rockers went screaming over my head. The sky was also lit up by natures fireworks. I paddled hard to get away from the falling rockets. 

The storm was all around me but I kept paddling. My goal was Boscobell 20 miles downstream. I made it half way there when a cool breeze came in over the water. I put up my tent in 2 minutes. The storm hit just as I got in my tent. The winds were strong and the rain heavy. I set my alarm and fell asleep. 

June 26

  At 4 AM I was breaking camp for the last time, only 36 miles to go. It was an easy trip down. Few canoeists know how beautiful this section of the river is. I saw only three canoes all day. The huge bridge spanning the river at Bridgeport signaled the end of my goal. Only five miles from there to the Mississippi. At 11:30 AM I was in the Mississippi River my quest over, 430 miles in 150 hours. At the Mississippi I had a fisherman sign my log book. He and his wife congratulated me. I paddled over to the Iowa side just to make it official, then paddled into Wyalusing State Park. I walked up the mile long hill and made camp while I waited for my ride. My face was swollen and blistered. My hands were twice as big as when I started. I felt great.

This time beat the old record of Mike Schnitzka and Bill Perdzock both 21 years old of Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin by 12 hours. They had done it in 162 hours or 6 days 18 hours. I had done it solo and without help from a support team. John Kropp was my driver to the start and back from Wyalusing State Park. 

Richard Hodgkins

DAY #1

Start Lac Vieux Desert 5:30 AM on 6/20/94

End Rainbow Rapids Bridge 9:30 PM on 6/20/94

DAY #2

Start Rainbow Rapids Bridge 6:10 AM on 6/21/94

End Council Grounds Campground 12:30 AM on 6/22/94

DAY #3

Start Council Grounds Campground 7:00 AM on 6/22/94

End Ridgewood Campground 5:00 AM on 6/23/94

DAY #4

Start Ridgewood Campground 11:00 AM on 6/23/94

End Castle Rock Flowage 2:00 AM on 6/24/94

DAY #5

Start Castle Rock Flowage 5:30 AM on 6/24/94

End Prairie Du Sak Dam 5:30 AM on 6/25/94

DAY #6

Start Prairie Du Sak Dam 8:00 AM on 6/25/94

End North of Boscobell 11:00 PM on 6/25/94

DAY #7

Start North of Boscobell 4:00 AM on 6/26/94

End Mississippi River 11:30 AM on 6/26/94

Basic Equipment Used On Trip

CANOE

Sawyer 

“Loon”   C-1      55 lb.

PADDLES

Zaveral 

2 light wt  bent shaft

TENT

North Face 

Tadpole

SLEEPING BAG

Kellty 

Ultra light

SLEEPING PAD

Therm-A-Rest

3/4 Ultra Lite

FIRST AID KIT

own

Small

FLASHLIGHT

Petzl head lamp

Zoom 4.5 Battery

COMPASS

Silva

REPAIR KIT

own

Roll Gaffers Tape

FOOD

Twin Labs

Opti Fuel ll  (5 lb.)

Power bars

35 bars

YOKE

Old Town

WATER FILTER

Katadyn

mini filter

DRY BAG

Granite Gear

CLOTHING

Sequel

Desert Rhat Hat

Patagonia

capiline silk wt---med wt

Dupont 

Seal Skinz dry socks

Nike

Gortex Rain Suit

Alp

Sandels

Bug Out

Bug Suit